Aix en Provence

Aix sits in Provence proper, a little east of the Vaucluse.

Aix is a bit off the mainline: while a TGV connection is possible, the only direct rail line into the town itself is a non-electrified branch line from Marseilles. So we arrived by bus. Departure from Avignon, at dawn, was moody…..not many bus terminals boast a Roman wall as their perimeter! We dozed most of the way down a busy autoroute.

I was charmed by this town. It was noticeably different: more wide tree lined boulevards, more pastel coloured plaster buildings, more ornate detail, a little less stone. Lots more fountains and larger roundabouts and public squares. While there were many upscale shops and cafes, there was also lots of authentic old buildings that harkened to earlier eras. I felt I had found the real France.

There was artwork everywhere – as befits the birthplace of Cezanne and others. Even the transit system seemed to have been painted by artisans. I understood pre-modernist French art a lot better when I saw first hand how the trees dapple the streets and squares with patches of light.

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Before we left Aix, we hung out on a bridge overlooking the railway station and did some foaming. It was quite rewarding.

After our day in Aix, it was time to move on from Avignon……see Chapter 3